Tasting, Corn: Seed, Grain, Vegetable of Summer
on tricycle.com
Tasting: Green
Tasting: Corn
Tasting: Peaches
Tasting: Giga Beans
Tasting: Tea
We hear about people rioting because of food shortages. On
television we see sacks of grain being delivered to places of famine.
What’s in them? Rice? Wheat? Spaghetti? All the whole grains we don’t
eat? Is it enough? Imagine lots of delicious food and then imagine
giving it all away. Let’s feed the hungry.
While shopping in
Whole Foods, that grand beast that took the folksy organic cooperative
market of the ‘60s and exploded it, I stood gazing at the many hot and
cold take-out bars overflowing with mouth-watering salads, soups, and
stews. Imagining these stainless steel steam tables laden with their
delectable offerings teleported to areas of starvation and famine, I
could see them airlifted down to a dusty, hot-oh-so-hot, browned-out
and parched, flat, treeless field. Very, very thin people, some with
empty bowls, begin to walk slowly, then faster, towards them. They
begin this brief journey lugging sacks of rice on their heads then
dropping them as they get closer to the steam tables. The sacks are
spread out in the field.
It is impossible to know what these
hungry people would make of such strange foods. Would it be an act of
generosity to offer unfamiliar edible aggregates steaming in metal
containers? What would our starving brothers and sisters taste? Have
their cells that respond to smells and taste atrophied? If years passed
without hunger, would these people need to be reminded to eat whole
grains? Would they agree with Escoffier that the experience of the dish
- what it actually tastes like - is the only thing that matters?
We
really do, I believe, want to solve world hunger and all people to
have, as Wavy Gravy has proclaimed and chanted, “basic human needs.” As
I write this, 100 million people are facing starvation due to a variety
of causes. Sitagu Sayadaw, a monk from Myanmar, says, “Meditation can
not remove disaster. Material support is very important now…”
Corn,
in all its diverse forms, is a remarkable achievement of plant breeding
that developed over thousands of years. It started off as a grass with
just a couple of rows of narrow seeds enclosed in a husk. In the
Americas, corn has served as a major staple. The traditions of Native
Americans include community rituals for planting and harvesting. Corn
and humans share a bond and interdependence as well as a sacred
connection that stems from the beginning of time.
The idea of solving world hunger by developing a strain of corn that would resist drought and blight has been promoted by various governments and corporate interests. This is, in part, is how we got into the GMO dilemma. It is not surprising that corn was chosen. The attempt to solve problems of hunger by manipulating the plant is not new. The way it is being done currently and the motivation behind it, however, has stimulated many questions and controversy. Some consider the present attempt “contamination.”
If you are lucky enough to know your local farmers and how they grow their corn crop, you might enjoy one of the great culinary treasures of summer. The type of edible corn we are most familiar with is Sweet Corn that comes in three varieties: white, yellow or bicolor. The other types of corn are Flint, Flour, Dent, Popping, Indian, and Waxy. How many ways can you say “delicious” or “hybrid?”
Using corn and our senses, let’s prepare Corn-in-a-Cloud: a meditation on the food of imaginary gods. Proceed as if there were nothing else you would rather be doing. Cook like what you are cooking is the most important thing in your life at this very moment.
When choosing fresh corn, put your hand fully around it, husk and all, to feel its firmness, freshness and aliveness. Go ahead and fondle it.
When you are ready to prepare this recipe, remove the husks and silk* from the corn with a sense of wonder. Examine each ear as you strip it bare to reveal the display of kernels. Notice how each ear’s appearance is different. Have a sense of your ancestors, who took years of trial and error to bring this very moment.
(*Corn silk can be prepared as a diuretic tea. Save the silk found under the husk and pour boiling water over; let steep about ten minutes. You can also save the husks to dry and use for tamales or to wrap around fish on the grill.)
CORN IN A SPICY YOGURT SAUCE (or Corn-in-a-Cloud)
Serves 4 as a Main dish, 6-8 as an Appetizer
As accustomed as we are to eating corn on the cob simply boiled or grilled, you might find that the yogurt and spices in this dish enhance the corn with a delectable sauce bringing a new level of flavor. Eat small pieces of the cob from the sauce with your hands, or cut the kernels off and put them directly into the sauce. If you don’t like it spicy, cut down on the amount of chili, or eliminate it entirely. Eat this dish alone or add a side of steamed spinach and grilled carrots. Notice that Corn-in-a-Cloud has all the five tastes in one dish: sweet, sour, salty, bitter and pungent - plus delicious.
2 cups low-fat plain yogurt
1 cup water or light coconut milk
3-4 tablespoons chickpea flour
2 medium Vidalia onions, chopped
1 cup cilantro
1-2 jalapeno or serrano chilies, stems and seeds removed, minced
1-2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
3-4 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds
1 teaspoon unhulled sesame seeds
3/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
pinch cayenne, optional
4-6 ears fresh corn on the cob
sea salt
2 tablespoons toasted coconut
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
2 tablespoons chopped cashews
1-2 tablespoons honey or agave nectar, optional
lime juice
The Sauce: Into a medium bowl, whisk together the yogurt, water or coconut milk, and the chickpea flour. Set aside. In a food processor, puree together 1 chopped onion, 1 cup cilantro, 1 chopped chili, and the grated ginger. The color of this puree is a heavenly bright green with a distinctly fresh aroma. In another bowl, combine the remaining chopped onion and chili.
In a large saucepan heat the oil. Add the mustard, cumin and sesame seeds. Fry them about 30 seconds. Without letting your thoughts scatter, listen for the popping sounds. Reduce the heat and add the chopped onion and chili. Fry, stirring, until the onion is translucent and almost golden - about 10 minutes for the transformation to be complete. Stir in the yogurt mixture, the pureed onion mixture, turmeric and salt. Add the optional dash of cayenne. Stir this creamy blend well. Breathe gently and appreciate the smells. Don’t be distracted even if you are in the midst of an active situation with lots of guests. Accept the challenge.
To Finish: Add the corn pieces and/or kernels to the sauce. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. The sauce should thicken. (If not thickened enough, make a slurry with equal parts of flour and water. Stir in slowly.) Taste for seasoning. If you find the yogurt taste too sour, stir in a tablespoon of honey or agave nectar.
This dish can be made in advance. Cool it then cover and refrigerate overnight. Reheat it gently, adding a little bit of water. It doesn’t need to be too hot.
Garnish, if you wish, with toasted coconut and chopped cilantro, or chopped cashews, and a squeeze of fresh lime juice. Relax with ease when you offer this dish to your friends and yourself. Remember that because you noticed everything you are doing while you made Corn-in-a-Cloud, you have also awakened your mind. Thoroughly enjoy the tastes. Take a moment to dedicate the merit to all sentient beings.
Phyllis Segura is a Shambhalian, private chef, photographer and painter. She lives in Piermont, NY.
www.cookingontheriver.com
